Apply the, The very frequent application leads to a significant damage of the hair shaft. This is a 2 step technique: bleach on the regrowth followed by a blonde color application. Pro-tip: because our colour is softer in texture, using our developer will make your colour go further. Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. START NOW, This website uses cookies in order to be able to provide its services. Choose a lighter hair dye. Excessive chemical processing damages the hair. When coloring your hair to a darker shade, it can be darker than required. But, it is often sold only in a very large package. Toners also have the added benefit of adding gloss and shine to dyed hair. This hair is easy to become brighter or the darker. Read on to find out what developer you should use. Sometimes stylistswant to use this with hair bleach in order to get their clients very very blonde - for example, to lift it by 7 or 8 levels. HOWEVER, many color lines spend years formulating a specific developer to best work with their color formula and thus lift, tonality, longevity and consistency can only be guaranteed when using the ideal partner products. of a bad bleach job is usually because of a low-volume developer. Similar to 5 volume, 10 volume can be used with permanent color lines for depositing color, however, it will not offer much grey coverage or lift. Anytime you take your hair from dark to light, it is necessary to use toner. For instance, if your hair is brown and you want to go blonde, youll have to lift it. You can use the higher volume developer than recommended. If you use too low of a developer, you will not get the result you are looking for. Thank you for a wonderful article! To find out more, including the information on how to remove and disable them, click So you will lighten the hair as a result to some degree. The higher the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, themore "lift"you are going to get with your developer. So in this case you would need to use bleach with 20 Volume, followed by a color also with 20 Volume. You can also add in a little less developer.a thicker mix in order to do balayage techniques.Both these cases are explained more fully later on.But in general, if your hair is too dark and you want to lift a lot,you need to adjustthe developer strength as above, not the mix.If that does not give you the lift you are looking for, the answer is to use high lift color or bleach, not add in more developer! . It is the standard developer for grey coverage, however, a stronger developer may be needed for more resistant hair types. Re-apply if necessary if the hair is very dark.With Ugly Duckling bleaches you should never have to use 40 Vol developer & we don't recommend it. . Observe to the following rules: The quality of hair can also affects the coloring process. If you find that your hair is too low porosity to take to hair dye, volume 30 is also an excellent choice for a developer. 20 volume developer is intended to lift the hair 1-2 levels. If you have lengths which have been previously bleached or colored, you can use the right side instead. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. Furthermore, the amount of peroxide determines how much the hair cuticlewill open during the process. This is what a mix of Ugly Duckling bleach and developer should look like: You will manage to open the cuticle and you will get some of the hair's natural melanin to come out. It is challenging to understand when to use bleach, toners, developers, and other hair-dying products to achieve the look you want, but youll get an excellent, stress-free hairstyle once you know what works best for your hair. Start Here Hair Care Color What Developer to Use & Why It Matters | Detailed Guide. Peroxide, developer, oxidant, all these names have the same meaning but. To find out more, including the information on how to remove and disable them, click, 2010-2021 NECY s.r.o. Lightening: It is possible to use a lower volume developer or a shorter processing time of dyeing. Why do you need to mix it with your color?

A volume 10 developer with a blue toner will do the job if you have a brassy tinge to your bleached hair. Sometimes, your boxed hair dye comes with a developer, but it is better to buy them separately. Instead of just sitting on top of each strand, the color or bleach permanently changes the hair. Some developers are meant to lift, while others only deposit color. If you want the results of a volume 40 developer at home, it is better to use a volume 20 or 30 developer multiple times. My hair looked and felt shiny and soft. What developer should I use for bright red hair? Toning is level on level, so 10 Vol, Right? Again, always use toners when bleaching brown hair to avoid an orange tint. You need to discard your developer bottle within 12 months of opening.In any case, in a busy hair salon developers will not last that long!Care needs to be taken to always store developers (and indeed, color) in a cool and if possible dark place where it is not exposed to sunlight. By continuing to the site, you are agreeing to their use. Porous hair is easily brightened and absorbs the color very well. This sounds pretty awesome, but do keep in mind thatits hard to obtainasmost shipping companies cannottransport it. So when I am doing grey hair coverage, that's level-on-level. That would mean that you need to lift it by 10-5, in other words, by 5 levels. Also gray and white hair is very resistant. Using a developer with bleach is particularly damaging, so spoil your hair with specially-made conditioning treatments and hair masks. Curl Expression: Let Your Curly Hair Shine! Your mix will be more wet, & more runny.If it is way too runny, you may end up lightening the hair, but not depositing enough color. Do keep in mind that 40V used with lightener can be tragically damaging if misused. When used with bleach and foils 30 volume works fast and may incur the risk of over-processing. The oxidant creams contain the hydrogen peroxide, which opens the hair cuticle. It will lift your hair color up to 4 levels on its own. Apply the color on hair ends for the last 5-15 minutes. 30 Volume Developer (30V / 9% peroxide) will lift the hair up to 3 levels higher and is commonly used with lightener. No crappy blue I had to wait weeks to wash out so I was left with my silver, it was just a gorgeous silver right away and 4 months later it still has the pretty silver going. Volume 40 is also the go-to developer if youre looking to go from dark brown or black hair to light brown or blonde. I do not agree That brassy-orange lookof a bad bleach job is usually because of a low-volume developer. Please read my full affiliatedisclosurefor more information. While you can safely use a developer at home, it is essential to keep a few things in mind. 10 volume developer is meant to deposit pigment into the hair without lift. If we link to any product, you should assume that we'll receive a commission when you buy it, at no extra cost to you. Use 20 Vol for Ugly Duckling cream toners and high lift colors (anything beginning with 100). There is a risk of hair burns. That would be the correct thing to do. It will lift your hair color up to 4 levels on its own. Going from brown to blonde most commonly causes an orange tint, so blue toners are crucial for brunettes looking to go blonde. I was wondering, for deposit ONLY and Going from a level 4 to a level 3 using 3N permanent dark BROWN, would I only use a 10 developer? 40 Volume Developer (40V / 12% peroxide) will lift the hair up to 4 levels. Your mix will be too dry, andyou won't be able to saturate the hair properly with product and you may also get uneven and patchy color results.You will not be lifting out enough of the hair's natural melanin.This will mean you may end up with darker hair than you wished for. All rights reserved. Hair Developer is essentially hydrogen peroxide formulated inside a cream base in order to make it more cosmetic and gentle for the hair and the scalp. A baker doesnt guess the amount of flour to put in a cake, they will weigh, no matter how many times theyve made cake before! Make sure you do this calculation for every part of your hair, because your regrowth could be one level and your previously colored lengths could be another. It ensures the cuticle opens and delivers gentle colour into the cortex of the hair.

Its also essential to determine if you want to lift or deposit. It can be better than the lower volume developers, leaving your hair shafts open to the dye. Volume 30 developer with bleach will lighten medium brown hair to blonde very well. Its also an excellent option for people with minimum hair damage to explore bolder colors. Want to get paid to try new beauty products? Think of developers as activators. Summer Hair Week:10% off favorite brands! If youre going for a subtle change, a volume 10 developer will minimize damage and still provide your desired results. It will not be strong enough to get you to bleach blonde after one use, so plan to use it multiple times with plenty of TLC for your hair in between bleaching sessions. As you can see, the hair is really very brassy actually dark blonde in some places. No, it will not do that. Also, youd useit to stay anywhere around the level your hair already is, or to lift 1-2 levels. Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage. Volume 30 is for taking dark hair to light through multiple processes until you end up with a shade youre happy with, and volume 40 should be used by professionals and only in certain cases. In this short video, you can see the application of Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V with 20 Vol Developer.The stylist, Ashley, has done a mix of 1 part toner to 2 parts developer - which is what we recommend for toners.It allows you to work fast - and in this case, our model's hair was super long and we needed to work fast.The toner sat on our model's hair for about 20 minutes in total. Your aim is to give a number to your current hair color level. It's also very common that we have hair of different quality on our heads (e.g. When 10 volume is used with bleach it can give 1-4 levels of lift depending on the bleach, the method of application, and the hair. We always suggest using a lower-volume peroxide and working with time and minimal controlled heat versus using a stronger peroxide level and trying to go faster, which can blow the cuticle. This helps avoid putting on too much product in one go and thus avoid visible lines of demarcation.It will also help if you are looking to do grey hair coverage and your client has difficult to cover grey hair. Types of Professional Hair Colors - Choose Right! The most common and available hair developers are: Use volume 10 developer if you want to change the tone or tint of your hair color. 20 40 developer can be used to lift 1-4 levels. That means any dye you are adding will not be able to penetrate the hair cuticle enough to change the color completely. Choosing the right developer is a delicate game of balancing getting your desired results and not damaging your hair. Between rounds of lightening, be sure to use conditioning treatments and bond builders to avoid over-damaging your hair. Hair developers are essential to any bleach or dye job because they allow the bleach or dye to penetrate the hair shaft. When you have lightening or coloring or toning to do, do it once and get it right. It depends on what you are trying to achieve. Developers come in a variety of volumes to choose from. We are also a member of several other affiliate networks. Choosing the right developer is a delicate game of balancing getting your desired results and not damaging your hair. - Facebook Review. If you are using Ugly Duckling colors, toners and bleaches, follow the instructions given here and you will get excellent results. Color is absorbed very well. Volume 20 is an excellent choice for most jobs, including gray coverage, bold hair colors, and light bleach jobs. First things first, we should talk about the levels of hair. That is why it is essential to take care of your hair before, during, and after applying a developer to your hair. What developer should I use to go darker? If youve had enough chemicals in your hair, you can also use some household products to help tone your dye job. If you need to lift by more than 3 levels, you will need touse bleach or a high lift color before you tone. It helps the color or bleach open up the outer layer of the hair (the cuticle, in other words) and allows the mix to penetrate the hair shaft. This will make it easier to understand how the different volumes of developer work. You will just end up needing to color again to get it right and the multiple applications of developer will do unnecessary damage to your client's hair. The color formula should not be mixed until you are ready to apply. If you want to keep your level of color, use the 3% developer. What would not work is to tone with 10 Vol on this type of hair. Use 10 Vol for less than 25% grey coverage and for going darker. Ugly Duckling recommends that you use this strength for most permanent color applications involving 1-3 levels lift. The most common force of developer. So, How Do You Know What Developer to Use. Color pigments, due to this process, can penetrate deep into the hair fiber and color it. It allows you to choose the right developer for your hair and desired results. Adds a shade or tint to hair of the same lightness level. This is how we keep the lights on (i.e. Volume 40 is also the go-to developer if youre looking to go from dark brown or black hair to light brown or blonde. Even when going with a runnier solution, aim at a maximum mix of 1:1.5 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:2.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lighteners (Brilliant Blonde) and toners. If you didnt mix developer with your hair dye, the color molecules would not be able to penetrate the hair and would just wash right off. Using a purple toner will avoid a yellow tint to your hair, while blue toner will avoid an orange tint. Mix developer and color in a plastic mixing bowl. Both mixes are in line with what we at Ugly Duckling Color recommend: 1:2 for the bleach and 1:1 for the color. 10 Volume Developer (10V / 3% peroxide) developer will deposit color and make the hair darker that is was. Please update your browser. If, for example you are going for a true blonde color, the answer would be either 9 or 10. Toners also have the added benefit of adding gloss and shine to dyed hair. The recommended mix for our hair color is 1+1, Use 20 Vol for up to 3 levels lift and for the regrowth area (hair processes faster there because of the heat from the scalp). Well, one of the tubes contains the actual color, and the other is a hair color developer. When using a developer, you will cause some damage to your hair no matter what. You also need developer to activate hair color. Find out how easy it is to start a beauty blog today! The developer is a totally essential element in the hair coloring process. You also do not want to use too high of a developer, or you can seriously damage your hair. Level 1 is black, and level 10 is a very light blonde. What to Keep in Mind When Using Developer. Usually each 3 % of developer achieves lightening of 1 degree. 5 volume is becoming a more used developer but often teamed with semi and demi-permanent colour lines for its minimal effect on the cuticle and deposit only. Hair Color Numbering - Choose the Right Shade! Disclaimer: I would never everrecommend using anything higher than a 40V. Use the combination of volume 30 developer, bleach, and toner until you get your desired result. I love the products and stock up so I don't chance running out when I need to touch up!" If you have light brown or super porous hair, use volume 20 developer. Keep stirring or using a whisk until you get a totally cream smooth paste. Depending on how many levels of lift you want to achieve, you can use 40 volume developer on dark hair. Darkening: You can use a higher volume developer to ensure better penetration of color pigments. If you want to get the best result, it is important to use the right concentration of developer. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. If the hair is a finer fabric it could over a slight one level lighter shift in base color and grey blending. It only works if you are going from a lighter to a darker shade, not the other way round. It will end upthinner, flatter andlast less long. If youre toning your hair, youll likely want to use a 10 volume developer for deposit. This helps me provide the best possible content on this site for free. Whenever youre lightening hair that much, its essential to use hair toner to avoid a brassy outcome. But some brands sell developers in small packages for one application (e.g. If you already have dark hair, you can also use volume 20 developer to minimize damage. Working fast is of course very important in a salon, and it helps them achieve consistent results from root to ends. Without developers, hair dye would not work.

We also recommend that you use this for blonde toning applications as well as for grey hair coverage. For example, fine hair is easy to become lighter, color faster penetrates into the hair fiber. Your Turn:Did you learn something new about the different volumes of developer?

Some high-lift colors even require double-40V for extra lift. A volume 30 or 40 will lighten your hair too much to leave your hair bold and pigmented. In this video, the stylist Brittney is applying10.1b which is once again a color.The mix here is 1 part color to 1 part developer.You can see the thickness of consistency that our stylist got with this mix.The color was left to process the full 30 minutes in order to get the full richness and intensity of this very unusual blue based ash blonde color. pay for content, product research, guides, and more). *Conditions Apply. The best way to get to blonde is by using volume 30 developer with bleach for people with dark brown or even black hair. Also, wash your hair with purple shampoo to continually tone it. The most common and available hair developers are: For anyone looking to cover grays, a volume 20 developer with your permanent hair dye of choice will provide full coverage without a lot of breakages. This choice will also depend on the type of color, degree of lightening, type of hair and quality of hair. Its role is as an activator for the color and will typically be in developers specifically made for glazes and toners. The higher the number is the stronger the developer is and it therefore more lightens hair. When coloring your hair to a darker hue, the color result may be slightly lighter. The recommended mix for liquid toners (Blondify) is 1+1. All bleaches are designed with a certain mix in mind.Ugly Duckling bleaches function very well with a 1:2 mix and will give you the lift that you need.For the root area and for 1-2 level lifts, use 20 Vol developer and in most cases that should be perfect.For higher lifts, use 30 Vol developer. If you are going for a dark or medium blonde color, that means you are going for a level 6-8. If youre into DIY hair color, you must formulate your hair color correctly.

The developer strength refers to the oxidizing potential of the developer, or how much hydrogen peroxide it contains. I absolutely loved my results. For every scoop of bleach you would need 2 scoops of developer. There are some other less commonly used volumes of developer such as 5V, 15V, 50V, 60V,etc. Hydration is essential for your scalp and hair follicles, so be sure to keep it hydrated. For instance, 5N means your end result should be a level 5 with the right volume of developer. So I use 10 Vol, Right?Ummonce againnot so fast!If you have 25% grey hair or less than 10 Vol will be OK.But once again, the fact that 10 Vol developer does not penetrate deeply into the hair cuticle will penalise your end result.For more than 25% grey hair, we recommend 20 Vol rather than 10 Vol.You will be softening the cortex more and depositing color pigments deeper, not just coating the outside.The hair color will alsolast longer that way. The most commonly used strengths are as follows: 10 Volume Developer,containing 3% hydrogen peroxide is used for no-lift hair color, tone-on-tone and tone-down applications. Volume 30 developer with bleach will lighten medium brown hair to blonde very well. Wella Welloxon Perfect or Schwarzkopf Igora). What developer should I use for dark hair? The hair dye developer lifts the cuticle of your hair just enough for color to get in or out of the hair. Do not use 40 Vol with Ugly Duckling bleaches. Can it damage your hair? By continuing to the site, you are agreeing to their use. For Blondify liquid toners you have the flexibility of 7 Vol, 10 Vol and 20 Vol, But make sure that the hair is well prelightened. It is 12% peroxide, meaning it can burn your scalp if you have sensitive skin or leave it on for too long. Follow the coloring rules we have provided and you will excellent coloring results. You also do not want to use too high of a developer, or you can seriously damage your hair. If you are using the Ugly Duckling bleach scoop, you can use the same scoop to measure out the developer. Hello! Use a weighing scale or the markers on the bowl to get the mix ratio right. Volume 40 developers should be left to the professionals because of their strength and potential to cause severe burns. There are so many different developers, it can be difficult to buy the right oxidant. What is important, however, is that you choose the correct strength of developer and follow the correct mix instructions. 40vol developer can be used with permanent hair color and high lift color to give 4-5 levels of lift depending on the power of the color and the texture of the hair. Volume 30 and 40 will lift your hair color significantly, so the dye will not be as dark. Are you ready for hair coloring? However,we would suggest if you are new to coloring that you do not pour by sight. The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Color is 1 part color to 1 part developer for most of our colors.The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Toners (Intense Pearl Blonde, Intense Silver Blonde, Pearl Blonde Toner, Silver Blonde Toner) is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.The recommended mix For Ugly Ducking High Lift Colors (anything beginning with the number 100) is also 1 part color to 2 parts developer.The recommended mix for Ugly Duckling Bleach (Brilliant Blonde), is1 part Brilliant Blonde to 2 parts developer. Nowhere can I find the answer. Did you ever wonder why there are two parts to your hair color and why they only start working when you mix them together? Sounds like something youd wanna put on your head, right? normal hair with dry and split ends). You could instead use Ugly Duckling's Intense Pearl Blonde toner with 20 Vol & that would work too, as Ugly Duckling's intense toners do have lift. Developers come in a variety of volumes to choose from. Different companies will include different additives but at a base level the hydrogen peroxides job is to lift the cuticle layer of the hair. The best products for your for more than 10 years. We dont recommend using 40vol with bleach. If you have grey hair, its crucial that you use a 20 volume developer for optimal coverage. There are several different volumes of developer, and each of them has a different function. Tip! For every hair dyeing with professional hairdressing colours it is almost always necessary to buy a developer (oxidant, peroxide, activator). If youre looking to lighten your hair one or two levels, use volume 20. What Happens If You Put Too Much Developer Into Your Dye? Use 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring andgoing darker. 20 volume is the highest level of developer that should be used on the scalp with bleach as the scalp produces more heat and increases the power of the developer. You need developer to activate the bleach. The volumes of developer refer to how much peroxidethat developercontains. Many of the artists who produce video tutorials for Ugly Duckling do in fact use fairly runny mixes (See below). When used with bleach, 20 volume is a powerful tool lifting 1-9 levels depending on the bleach, method of application, and hair type/history. Even for blondes wanting natural-looking highlights, volume 10 does not lift enough to lighten their hair. No, the 2 have very separate chemical properties. When coloring your hair, youll need to determine your current level along with the target level. With that stated, volume 40 developer is useful in certain cases. For anything else 20 or 30 Vol should be the natural choice. Used for dyeing and also for lightening hair. Commentdocument.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a5a288d1d1b94f8c2c8437420e8c514c" );document.getElementById("e807496b39").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Clairol Professional Pure White 10 Gentle Lift Creme Developer, 16 oz, Clairol Pure White 20 Creme Developer Standard Lift 16oz, Clairol Professional Soy4plex Pure White Creme Hair Color Developer, 30 Volume. For a gentler, at-home tone, use different types of tea like green, hibiscus, or chamomile. If youve had enough chemicals in your hair, you can also use some household products to help tone your dye job. They are called activators because they lift the cuticle of the hair shaft. If you find that your hair is too low porosity to take to hair dye, volume 30 is also an excellent choice for a developer. Just to clarify, this does not explain the hue of the color; its just a method used to measure how light or dark the color is. As a hairdresser you should really be using bleach to lift up the dark parts first. If you want a bright blue or bright pink hair job, a volume 20 developer will strip enough of your natural pigment to give you that fully pigmented result youre looking for. I decided to try Ugly Duckling after watching several videos of it being used with Olaplex. Do you plan to color your hair from the comfort of your home. Sometimes, your boxed hair dye comes with a developer, but it is better to buy them separately. Hint: You can usually find the target level by looking at the number on the hair color youre using. It will lift the hair by one or two levels, allowing color or bleach to penetrate in and do its work. For those looking for a more obvious change, a volume 30 developer allows you to lift two or three levels and penetrate the hair shaft deeper for a more pigmented result. For anyone looking to cover grays, a volume 20 developer with your permanent hair dye of choice will provide full coverage without a lot of breakages. More information on the, John Paul Pet Oatmeal Conditioning Spray 236ml. If you use too low of a developer, you will not get the result you are looking for. Drop your thoughts in the comments section below! 20volume will give 1-2 levels of lift when used with permanent hair color. 10v developer is meant for deposit and will not lift the hair. Measuring the correct amount ensures better coverage of grey hair, better longevity of the colour and the correct levels of lightening. Ummnot so fast!! It can be better than the lower volume developers, leaving your hair shafts open to the dye. Volume 20 is the Goldilocks of hair developers; its not too strong and not too weak. Check out the quick answers below if you still have questions about how to find the correct toner for your hair color and texture and apply it properly without causing damage. Watch this video to the end: you will see both a bleach mix (Brilliant Blonde blue bleach) as well as a color mix (10.2 Extra Light Cool Blonde). She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand. If your hair has a more yellow tint, use a purple toner to counteract it. What Developer to Use & Why It Matters | Detailed Guide, Instead of just sitting on top of each strand, the, color or bleach permanently changes the hair. What developer should I use to bleach my hair?

Use 30 Vol for any lift higher than 3 levels lift. https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/developer-choice. If there is a lot of yellow/orange, you are somewhere between level 6 and level 7. First off, it is optimal for covering grey hair. For natural blondes looking for a more sun-bleached look, using volume 20 developer with bleach will help you achieve that look. The choosing the correct developer to use for your desired results is crucial to getting the color you want. 2022 Ugly Duckling All Rights Reserved. If youre looking to go from light brown to black or black to blonde, volume 10 is not nearly strong enough.

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